IT'S little surprise Donnybrook Cheese is building a faithful following, writes SARAH HUDSON

It is a ritual dating back centuries.

After church, on a Sunday morning, Italians visit their local cheese farmer for a fresh batch of warm ricotta, which they generously spread on crusty bread for brunch.

"It's a tradition that goes back to the old country," says Caz Monteleone, who runs Donnybrook Cheese, just north of Melbourne, with his parents, Bernado and Caterina.

"It's the equivalent of their Cornflakes, it's a weekend staple after church."

And it is a ritual that is alive and well at Donnybrook Cheese.

For the past 17 years Italians of all ages, from as far afield as Wangaratta and Frankston, have formed a procession to the doors of the Monteleone farm each Sunday at 11am to buy a $2.70, 450g tub of warm ricotta.

"As the years have gone by, not all of them go to church first, mainly just the older folk, and more recently anglos have caught on too," Caz says.

"But Sunday is definitely our busiest day. We open at 8am after Dad (aged 73) milks at 6.30am and we make the cheese through the morning and it's ready by 11am.

"It varies but there would be up to 40 people on most Sundays ... it's because hot ricotta has a different flavour to the cold variety."

However, it is not just Donnybrook Cheese's ricotta that is winning fans and plaudits.

Just recently the family won gold medals at the Melbourne Specialist Cheese Show Awards for their pasterello and parmesan. The latter is a clear favourite, winning a host of other awards over the past two decades.

And while the family have carved a niche in hand-made Italian cheeses, they have developed their line to 17 different varieties, catering for many nationalities.

"The varieties have been driven by demand. Europeans and Arabic nationalities have asked for haloumi, fetta and yoghurt. Greeks have asked for saganaki," Caz says.

"We have supplied 400 Indian restaurants with paneer.

"Italians make great cheese but there are also, of course, great Dutch and French cheeses. So we aspire to make something great."

Cheeses are also driven by the tastes of different seasons.

"In spring and summer people like to eat bocconcini and soft mozzarella," Caz says.

Aside from the mature varieties, Donnybrook's cheeses go from the cow to the counter at the farm's shop.

Of the herd of 200 cows, 90 are milked at any one time to ensure supply all year-round.

These 90 make about 1800 litres of milk, or 180kg of cheese.

While Bernado milks twice a day, Caz and Caterina make the cheeses.

This six-day-a-week ritual is hard-wired into the Monteleone genes.

Bernado and Caterina were both raised in Sicily - Bernardo a fifth-generation dairy farmer and cheese maker.

"Because there was no refrigeration back then they were forced to make cheese every day, out of a mix of cow's, sheep and goat's milk," Caz says.

His parents married in 1961 in Sicily and came to Australia in 1968 with a dream to own a farm and make cheese.

Originally, they farmed 8ha at Wollert with six Friesians.

"Dad thought he had made it. But there was no way you could live off six cows. In Italy you could. You'd have been regarded as a godfather if you had that many cows there," he says.

In 1982 they traded up to 160ha in Donnybrook, first making four cheeses, with the first being casalinga.

It was at that time Caz, who originally trained as an electrician, joined the family business.

"I'd always helped Dad, but it had been a hobby. So I knew how to make the cheeses but I also trained to make soft cheeses, such as brie and blue vein, which Dad didn't know how to make," Caz says.

Ten years ago they opened a cafe and in September they opened a pizza restaurant, with all items on the menu showcasing their produce - from rissoles to milkshakes.

"It is busy and I'd like them (his parents) to ease up. I've noticed Dad takes longer to milk but he doesn't want to stop. Mum has always been a battler," Caz says.

Despite the dedication and hours of work to the farm, the family make it back to the home country every few years.

"I like to go back because they are very innovative over there. They even make animal shapes out of cheese," Caz says.

"We were the first people in Australia to make chilli cheese and I originally saw that idea in Italy."