TRADITION rules at Mortlake, writes KATE DOWLER

The pub - arguably the oldest in the district, having been established in either 1860 or 1848, depending on who you listen to - has a long-running and unusual tradition when it comes to takeaways.

Stubbies are wrapped in newspaper, ready for the road, which means the drinker doesn't need to have a stubbie holder handy.

"It is a tradition in this pub. I don't know anywhere else doing it - it has been continued by a few publicans now," Steve said.

"I think it started in Queensland with long-necks and somehow ended up down here.

"It gives you something to drink and something to read."

The Mount Shadwell pub is one of two hotels in the small Western District town of Mortlake.

Steve and his wife Nicola have owned the leasehold for four years, after moving from Darwin, where they had a painting and decorating business.

Steve said there was some argument which pub in the region was the oldest.

"They reckon 1860 was its first licence here, but it was rumoured to be 1848," he said.

"But that's one of the strangest things about this pub: there is nothing from the past here.

"In every other pub there are records about the past publicans, but here, we haven't been able to find anything, so we don't really know who has been here."

Mount Shadwell hotel supports two local football clubs - Woorndoo and Deakin University - along with the Mortlake Cricket Club.

This year Steve has 86 people in the footy tipping competition, which brings the locals together each Thursday evening.

"We have a 1am liquor license for Wednesday through to Saturday - we didn't agree with the hike in licensing, because we didn't think we should have to pay for the increase in licensing fees," Steve said.

The pub also does meals from Monday until Saturday, serving about 200 a week.

Running a country pub was a good job, Steve said, but not as simple as some people may think.

He said getting good staff was a constant challenge.

"A lot of young kids think they want to work behind the bar, but when they get there it is not quite what they expected," he said.

Steve said being a good publican took a thick skin and an ability to forget about any nonsense that was said late at night.

"If you think everyone is going to be your friend at 1am in the morning when you are closing up, it might not be the job for you," he said.

A big part of the hotel's business is The Stables motel, built from part of the original stables, which were constructed at the same time as the original hotel.

The five three-and-a-half-star rooms are constantly booked out, Steve said, with many tourists and travelling company reps booking in well in advance.

Eventually Steve and Nicola want to own their own pub. So for now they are doing all they can to learn the business.

"I think country pubs do have a future; but it will be harder for places with small populations," Steve said.