GREG and Sue O'Donoghue are enjoying the tastes of the good life, writes SARAH HUDSON
Yes, Victorians are mad for artisan food production, from cheesemaking to coffee-bean roasters, beekeeping and bread baking.
But only Greg and Sue O'Donoghue have arguably been mad enough to take it to a whole new level.
From their picturesque 11ha biological farm at Red Hill, on the Mornington Peninsula, the couple are re-discovering the joys of artisan production, not only in a bid to create a model of sustainable farming, but also to sell at their farm-gate venture and online store, Green Olive.
"It's the Italian way. It used to be all about olives, vino, bread and sausages, every farm would do that," Greg says.
"I don't know whether we're doing it to that level, but we do love food and we don't just want to eat it, but learn how to make it too."
Where some farmers or producers may dabble in one or two lines of production, the O'Donoghues clearly don't shirk a challenge.
Most recently they have been trying their hand at sourdough bread in their purpose-built wood-fired oven.
Lamb sausage has been another skill they've mastered.
"We tackled that the same as everything else - read a lot, and I did a course," Sue says.
Ultimately, they hope to use their own lambs (currently numbering about 60 Wiltshires) in the sausages, but draw a line at DIY butchery.
"Because the farm philosophy is about zero miles, it would be great to grow the lambs and butcher them ourselves and sell them, that would be perfect," Greg says.
"But if we want to sell sausages in a commercial venture then the lambs need to go to a certified abattoir."
In addition to sausages and bread, Greg and Sue roast their own coffee beans - and even stock 35 coffee trees (which, given the climate, they don't expect to produce beans any time soon).
Their farm stocks beehives, with honey collected by a local apiarist and sold at the Green Olive shop.
In what spare time she has, Sue produces a range of chutneys, relishes and jams, which all use recipes collected when she was a young girl on the family farm near Echuca.
Olives from about 500 trees on their property are pressed locally for their own line of oils, while 4.5ha of vines produce their Kelpie Ridge pinot and chardonnay.
Greg, who has studied viticulture, says while their curiosity for artisan food production knows no bounds, they are limited by their greater desire to run a biological farm.
When the couple first bought the land in 2002, the aim was to make it into a sustainable tourism attraction.
They removed the cattle and non-indigenous plants, conducted widespread planting and established a variety of systems, including recycling all organic matter.
"The only thing we send off site is plastic and bottles, the rest we compost, and we don't use chemicals, except for blackberries," Greg says.
"The only thing we bring to the property is gas and power, we have our own septic and sewage and water.
"I can't say we follow it all, but we draw upon the principles of biological farming."
Given their backgrounds, perhaps it is not surprising Sue and Greg have thrown themselves into artisan production with such gusto.
Sue grew up on a stud sheep and cattle farm in northern Victoria and later became a nurse in Melbourne.
Greg, from Geelong, was a high-flying number cruncher for PricewaterhouseCoopers.
"But I spent my life on planes and never saw my children (the couple have a son and daughter)," Greg says.
"I was sick of the corporate world and it was time for a change."
They bought the Red Hill property and the following year, 2003, established Green Olive Gourmet deli in Sorrento.
The shop ran for five years and sold their own and local products, before they moved on.
Since then they have developed their online store, and opened the farm gate.
Greg says while life is hectic, he would never go back to the corporate world.
"It's a pretty good life. We collect the eggs in the morning, then make a nice cup of coffee and have a slice of sourdough," he says.
"It's been hard work, but we're seeing the pay off now."
- Green Olive at Red Hill, greenolive.com.au/ or ph: 1300 884 813.






