A CHEF by trade and a country kid at heart, Jordan Grasser lasted about five seconds in the city.
But it was his time in Melbourne's food industry, working in kitchens where phrases such as "sustainable", "organic", "genetically-modified free" and "free range" were commonplace, that helped shape the ethos behind Grasser Farms.
- AT A GLANCE
- Who: Jordan Grasser
- What: Free range pigs
- Why: Happy as a pig in mud
- Where: Hallston
- Report: GEMMA GADD
That, and a passion for raising animals.
Now, he and wife Chell, with their young family, are walking the walk.
Grasser Farms, perched high in Gippsland's Strzelecki Ranges, at Hallston, produces free-range, grass-fed pork from Large Black pigs and is managed according to biological, sustainable farming practices.
"We bought the farm in 2006, and then it didn't rain," Jordan said.
"The farm was milking 80 cows and, from the day we bought it, we decided we'd manage it differently. The milk price was going down and pork prices were holding up."
Jordan and Chell still milk 50 cows in their walk-through dairy, but the farm now also runs 220 pigs - 170 growers plus breeding stock - and 100 geese in the lead-up to Christmas in July.
"This year we've had 540mm of rain and, if it keeps raining, we'll end up with 1450mm for the year," Jordan said.
Rain, and plenty of it, has certainly helped Jordan and Chell transform their 50ha farm.
After 30 years under intensive grazing, spraying and sowing, they've removed pesticides, herbicides and chemical fertilisers, and seen native grasses flourish.
They use liquid fish and kelp fertiliser and compost, some of which they brew on farm, and the balance they source from a supplier in Morwell.
The fertiliser is applied in autumn and spring (about 1000 litres covers the whole farm) and the soil is aerated frequently.
Jordan said the pastures now had more bulk, were nutrient-dense and grew with a hint of rain.
"These dry years have shown us just how important diversity is; in tough seasons, one plant always comes through. The pigs are pretty handy at cleaning up marshmallow, nettle and capeweed and are turned loose on paddocks for a month at a time to eradicate weeds.
"It does take time out of (pasture) production, but the inputs are far less."
Otherwise, the free-range piggery occupies 10ha of the farm and is moved - hutches, troughs and all - every 12 to 18 months.
A traditional, heritage breed, the Large Black has its origins in the Old English hog, which dates back to the 16th century.
It's believed the first Large Blacks were farmed in Australia around the start of last century and they have earned a reputation for being good milkers and mothers.
Their dark skin and coat are able to withstand Australian temperatures outdoors.
"They are purebred and slower-growing animals. To grow out to 60-70kg takes eight to 10 months," Jordan said.
"That's partly why we don't compromise on being free range."
Much larger than most commercial pigs, the Large Black is an excellent forager, so the Grassers use nose-rings to prevent their pigs from turning the soil over and destroying the pastures.
The ring causes the pig little discomfort, but it means the farm can't be certified organic.
"If I didn't use nose rings, they would be living in a dust bowl in summer and a mud pit in winter," Jordan said.
Otherwise, all the feed is free of genetically modified materials and the pigs are not treated with vaccines or antibiotics.
"I wouldn't impinge anything further on them (than nose-rings) but it's necessary to farm free-range and maintain pastures and soil health.
"We do fall between the cracks (for organic certification) but the main focus is on keeping our pork pasture-fed and truly free-range."
The pigs are processed at Giles Abattoir in Trafalgar, butchered by Val Gatti in Yarragon, and the pork sold, free of nitrates, at the Koonwarra farmers' market and at Melbourne farmers' markets.
A single pig, when accounting for prices of about $35/kg for the sweet cuts, can return $1000, proof that diversifying pays.
"The dry years have shown us it's too risky to only have a finger in one pot. To run an integrated farm is tough but we need the diversity on such a small farm."
"Our children help us grow food, pick it, and they know where it comes from. We believe in what we are doing, farming for the future."
How does that saying go? Happy as a pig in mud.
